Tilt Calibration/Cal Ride-Coast Down Data

[DanielK]

I am new to the iBike and so far I really like it. I've got most of the calibration/coast down stuff figured out but I have a few questions which are probably very easy to answer but can't get a clear answer from the manuals.

Tilt Calibration

I make a slight change to my hand set up where I am going probably going to raise the hoods up a little bit due to some wrist discomfort. If I do another tilt calibration will I need to do another calibration ride. I don't foresee any change in my overall position. I guess I may also be doing it wrong but when I go into my tilt calibration the next thing it takes me to is "Cal Ride" What am I doing wrong?

Cal Ride/Coast Down Data

With the iBike Analysis software you need to download your Cal Ride and Coast Down information so when you analysis other rides it won't be all messed up. If I were to purchase the TrainingPeaks software would I still need to download anything into the TP software or will the data from the ride automatically go into TP's? I am not sure if purchasing the TP WKO+ software will be beneficial or not since I would still need the other stuff software to import intervals and such.

[TriBike]

I think that you will be fine just re-doing the tilt cal as long as your position doesn't change to much. It all depends on how accurate you want your information to be. Sometimes changing your hand position may perk your chest up a bit more on the bike, thus increasing resistance... I race, so personally, I would probably do another cal ride anyway if I changed position, but this could only mean the difference of realizing a few watts. I am not certain which iBike you have been using, however, if it is the iSport, I feel that your first investment before training peaks should be an upgrade to the iPro. Our software is spectacular for analyzing ride files, and will help you to begin realizing the correlations between heart rate/ power/ cadence/ slope etc. You may find that you won't need training peaks, or possible you will want to saturate yourself with more, and decide to purchase it. I hope this helps you.

[travispape]

Good answer from Tom (TriBike). Just to add a couple of things:

* Seeing "cal ride" after you do a tilt calibration is normal--you aren't doing anything wrong. Whenever you finish a given item in setup, it always shows you the next but there is no need to do it just because you see it.

* Regarding you change to raise the bars... If your unit is mounted on the bars (rather than the stem) and you rotate the bars up (by loosening the stem head plate screws), then your iBike is going to start riding a little more nose up. With respect to tilt, that is no problem. Simply do another tilt cal after you do the change. However, the bigger impact could be that your unit starts getting more wind pressure since the front port is getting more air. So because of the wind port, it would be a good idea to do another Cal Ride after you make the change to your bars.

* However, note that if you have the Pro or Aero (instead of the Sport), an alternative to the cal ride is to simply do an Out & Back ride and when you download the ride to the software, use the new "Tools -> Check Calibration" feature. This will let you know how much your calibration has changed and will give you a chance to update your profile. Be sure to send the the profile to your iBike if the changes are significant enough.

* The main thing that TP WKO+ provides is that it digests all of your recent riding and provided guidance to dose your training. If you need that kind of coaching, then get the WKO+ software. You will still need to use the iBike SW to download the rides from your unit then you can drag them to WKO+. You only need to transfer the ride files to WKO+--WKO+ doesn't need any of your calibration information nor would it know what to do with it.

Travis

[DanielK]

Thanks a lot guys! Much appreciated and I definitely understand the necessary purpose of the WKO+ software! I'm still not sure if I'm going to make an adjustment yet but happy it's not going to make a significant difference and it'll be easy to re calibrate to be more accurate!

[DanielK]

I'm going to post a few "newbie" questions here so I don't make a million different threads with dumb questions:

On the "Power Screen" the top 1/3 is the MPH, the bottom 1/3 is the Cadence/HR the middle 1/3 is your watts. My question is what does the small number on the bottom right of it represents. Like 800? I seriously have no idea and unless I missed it in the manuals I printed out then I don't see it.

[lorduintah]

There is a small "bar graph" just to the left of those numbers - The top range of that bar graph would correspond - in your case to 800 Watts full scale. Depending on the level of your wattage, thi snumber will change 2000, 400, 800, etc. for the 0 to X scale factor.

Then the bar can give you a relatvie fraction of th full scale range you are performing at.

Tom

xxxxxxx...................800 (roughly 1/3 of 800)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx........800 (roughly 2/3 of 800)