Profile numbers and second bikes etc

[munkster]

Just a quick couple of Qs - what is the significance of the profile numbers? Why are we directed to use profile 2 (I think) if using a combo mount?

Also, I am trying to set up a second bike but realise I need a different speed sensor in order to automatically switch profiles. If I don't have a second speed sensor can I still set up a different bike with the same sensor and switch profiles manually?

In the event I did do the automatic profile switch thing would I need a different cadence sensor too or would the same one be OK?

Lastly, my second bike is incredibly similar to the first bike so my logic goes that I can just duplicate the profile from my first bike (which is in profile 2 on Isaac) into profile 1 and then use the "Check Calibration" tool to refine it. Is there anything flawed about that?

Finally in the above profile duplication this now seems to mean that both my profile 1 and 2 are named the same, how can I change the name of a profile?

I did try a 5 minute ride the with the above but the power readings on the second bike were ludicrously high and the "Check calibration" thing wouldn't work because the friction value was negative IIRC.

thanks, hope you can shed some light on these, mildly confused.

ps - today's 5 min ride uploaded

[Velocomp]

Profile 2 has a slightly higher setting for wind factor, that has been customized to a combo mount.

Yes, you can use the same sensors with both bikes but you'll need to switch profiles manually.

Automatic profile selection is based on different speed sensor IDs, so the same cadence sensor would be OK for both.

If your two bikes are nearly identical, and you've set up the position of your PowerPod to be in the same place (and angle) on both bikes, and you're using the same speed sensor, then you can use the same profile on both bikes. The first 8 minutes of your first ride on the different bike will be "off" (while the PP recalibrates itself) but then things will be OK.

The first 5 minutes of any first-calibration ride will always be way off; the PP is calibrating then. There should have been a ride file after that one; this ride file should have normal numbers.

[munkster]

The first 5 minutes of any first-calibration ride will always be way off; the PP is calibrating then. There should have been a ride file after that one; this ride file should have normal numbers.

Not sure what you mean by "there should have been a ride file after that one"? There was only one?

When I say nearly identical I guess that might be stretching it - but they are both road bikes with similar sizes, similar weights... So I do think I'd better use two profiles.

I'm still a little unsure about the default profiles - even if profile 2 has been customised for a combo mount won't that customisation be overridden in time with a more refined set of settings after a "check calibration" run? Or am I misunderstanding how that works?

[Velocomp]

Check Calibration will override default settings, as long as the "send to Device" button is selected.

You should have more than one ride file in your device, as long as you did not stop instantly at the end of your 5 minute ride.

[munkster]

Understood. Yes, I would "Send to Device" after the "check calibration" I thought that was how one refined the settings?

And yes, I did stop after the 5 mins pretty much. I will do a longer run tomorrow and see what happens.

Thanks Jon.

[munkster]

Just thinking about this, the ride wasn't a "first calibration" ride because it wasn't a new sensor. Does that change things?

[Velocomp]

Your first 8 minutes of riding on the new bike will recalibrate things. Your watts will be off but eventually will settle in to the correct values

[munkster]

Just done said ride and yep the power stats settled down after about 8 minutes. Is there any way of "cleaning up" the power stats now for strava purposes? Not essential but may stuff up my FTP estimates on there which I have been keeping a vague eye on.

I did a 35km out-and-back ride so I am hoping the "check calibration" will be effective. Very windy though, headwind outbound, tailwind homebound, hopefully that won't mess it up.

[munkster]

Edit: hmmm, I just downloaded the ride file (attached) and it is doing that thing where it loses the cadence (in this case for about half of the ride). The cadence stats are there in Strava.

Also, when I run "check calibration" is seems to be suggesting that my average power is only 85W or something (i've attached a screengrab).

"Help!!!"

[Velocomp]

The only Strava fix I can think of is...don't turn it on for the first 8 minutes of your ride.

If you don't remove your PP from your bike after riding, then the PP should be "right on" at the start of your next ride.

[munkster]

Thanks... Our posts may have crossed there, not sure if you saw my second post with the screengrab?

[Velocomp]

Your lost cadence is causing average watts to drop in the Check Calibration feature.

The cadence signal in your PowerPod is very noisy. This should not be the case.

Please do the following:

1) press-hold the PP button for about 10 seconds, until the light goes out briefly, then starts flashing again. This will hard reset the PP

2) awaken your sensors, then do a new pairing by press-hold the PP button for about 4 seconds. Release the button to pair; when complete the light will be solid green

3) do a new ride, and post it here

[munkster]

Here's my ride files from today. I stopped for coffee halfway round so there are two from the same ride. One of them has the same cadence sensor drop out

Is this going to affect my power recording etc if it keeps doing this? I did the reset etc as instructed.

[Velocomp]

What kind of speed and cadence sensors are you using?

Please take photos of their location and also of your PowerPod location.

I am seeing a lot of noise in your cadence sensor signal.

[munkster]

I am using the new style separate Garmin sensors. The green lights flash when spun up and the batteries weren't replaced that long ago.

Speed sensor is on front hub, cadence sensor is half way down the NDS crank arm.

PowerPod is underneath the Garmin on a K-Edge combo mount.

I can take pics later if you need more, thanks! FWIW there appears to be no dropout of any of the sensors in the ride on Strava.

[Velocomp]

If you can, move the cadence sensor to the other crank arm.

[munkster]

Really? Isn't the cadence sensor meant to be on that side? Surely the chainring/spider etc is in the way and would either foul the chain itself or just not go round the arm? It is a 5800 Shimano 105 chainset. Attached are two pics, excuse the dirt/mud, this is now on my winter bike.

[Velocomp]

It was just a thought...

I honestly don't have any further advice for you. Your cadence data is noisy.

We can try swapping your PowerPod but I am skeptical that this will do anything...

[munkster]

Would you looking at my strava trace help at all? i.e. Would you expect to see this "noise" there too if it was a problem with the cadence sensor?

I'm in the UK I'm afraid how would we swap it if came to that? Do you have a distributor over here? Hopefully won't come to that I'll try another reset and keep an eye on it. Strava seems to be reporting power ok from what I can see so it's only Isaac that is throwing a fit!

[Velocomp]

Strava data won't help because they so heavily filter everything. By the way: how are you getting cadence data into Strava? From Isaac ride files? From your bike computer?

[munkster]

Data is recorded on Garmin Edge 100 which is then uploaded to Garmin Connect which in turn is synced to Strava automatically.

I've attached what it looks like in Garmin Connect...

[munkster]

Another ride from yesterday, is my cadence still "noisy"??

I did another reset beforehand.

[Velocomp]

In this file your cadence info is perfect.