When I put a fresh one battery, I can watch the voltage drop on the battery display in setup (I have a Gen III with 3.09 FW). It does start over 300, but then very slowly drops about 1 every minute or so.
Clearly it doesn't continue at this rate, is appears to slow down as the number drops.
Ultimately I am trying to determine when I need to change batteries. At this stage in the season I am riding some long rides (centuries and the like), and I want to make sure that I am collecting good data on the ride even though I start out with a good battery test at the beginning of the ride.
A related question, is what is the state of the battery when it first fails the battery test at start up?
Battery test & battery life?
Re: Battery test & battery life?
If the battery reads below 2.75 then it'll flash bad battery.
It's normal for a battery to come out of the package at 2.94 or so. It's close enough to 3 volts to be labeled as such.
It's normal for a battery to come out of the package at 2.94 or so. It's close enough to 3 volts to be labeled as such.
Boyd Johnson
http://www.boydcycling.com - high performance carbon wheels and accessories
http://www.boydcycling.com - high performance carbon wheels and accessories
-
ScottChapman
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:42 pm
Re: Battery test & battery life?
How many hours of riding should one expect to get out of a battery?
I do understand that the unit will tell me when the battery is bad. But my question really is more about how to avoid the situation where one starts out with a good battery test, but the battery runs down and goes bad during the ride ruining the veracity of the data. As my rides get longer (6, 8 hours or more) the chance of this happening increases.
I do understand that the unit will tell me when the battery is bad. But my question really is more about how to avoid the situation where one starts out with a good battery test, but the battery runs down and goes bad during the ride ruining the veracity of the data. As my rides get longer (6, 8 hours or more) the chance of this happening increases.
Re: Battery test & battery life?
In summer riding your battery should last 50-80 hours.
While riding, the warning signs of a dying battery are a fading screen and odd tilt, wind, and wattage readings.
If you decide to replace your battery during the ride, do a Trip Reset to save your ride data. Then, remove the old battery and replace it with a new one.
Note that your date and time will be lost when the battery is removed but that all other stored data will be untouched, including your ride files.
If you want you can take a moment to reset the date and time before resuming your ride but that's not critical.
After your ride you can use iBike 3 to merge the two ride files. Download and save both ride files, then open the first file. Use the File/Append iBike file... command to merge the second file to your first one.
While riding, the warning signs of a dying battery are a fading screen and odd tilt, wind, and wattage readings.
If you decide to replace your battery during the ride, do a Trip Reset to save your ride data. Then, remove the old battery and replace it with a new one.
Note that your date and time will be lost when the battery is removed but that all other stored data will be untouched, including your ride files.
If you want you can take a moment to reset the date and time before resuming your ride but that's not critical.
After your ride you can use iBike 3 to merge the two ride files. Download and save both ride files, then open the first file. Use the File/Append iBike file... command to merge the second file to your first one.
John Hamann
-
ScottChapman
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:42 pm
Re: Battery test & battery life?
Cool, I can just keep a spare battery in by pack then. Thanks for the info!
-
ScottChapman
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:42 pm
Re: Battery test & battery life?
Two related questions...
So, when I start my ride, the batter test says the battery is good, and it shows around 286. But by the time I finish it is around 270. My stats during the ride don't appear to be bogus, but is the battery OK and can I trust the results?
Also, how often should one replace the battery in the wireless mount and the speed/cadence sensors?
Thanks in advance!
So, when I start my ride, the batter test says the battery is good, and it shows around 286. But by the time I finish it is around 270. My stats during the ride don't appear to be bogus, but is the battery OK and can I trust the results?
Also, how often should one replace the battery in the wireless mount and the speed/cadence sensors?
Thanks in advance!
Re: Battery test & battery life?
ScottChapman wrote:
<When I put a fresh one battery, I can watch the voltage drop on the battery display in setup (I have a Gen III with 3.09 FW). It does start over 300, but then very slowly drops about 1 every minute or so.>
This is normal to most battery types, including the one in your car, if you start using it without the car running (like lights, radio at high volume, etc). Batteries rise to a 'rest voltage' and quickly drop to a 'working voltage' and both are dependent on how fresh (or charged in case of rechargeables)
the battery is.
<Clearly it doesn't continue at this rate, is appears to slow down as the number drops.>
See above - 'working voltage'
<Ultimately I am trying to determine when I need to change batteries. At this stage in the season I am riding some long rides (centuries and the like), and I want to make sure that I am collecting good data on the ride even though I start out with a good battery test at the beginning of the ride.>
John has frequently stated that starting at 2.75 or above is good. If planning for a century, I might add
a little more margin - maybe 2.78? Good to always carry the spare. Remember, if you are wireless, to put the new battery in the wireless mount and rotate it's old battery to the iBike is best overall procedure.
If you are mid ride and notice numbers going funny (high power typical) stop, do a trip reset and change your battery. You can assemble to two ride file parts (append function) in the iBike software later.
<A related question, is what is the state of the battery when it first fails the battery test at start up?>
I haven't actually observed this yet but I would expect that it dropped below 2.75 during the initial test.
I suspect the initial test places a slight extra load on the batter to reach nearly the 'working voltage' in a short period of time. If this is not exactly correct, perhaps John or someone will add to this ?
Russ
<When I put a fresh one battery, I can watch the voltage drop on the battery display in setup (I have a Gen III with 3.09 FW). It does start over 300, but then very slowly drops about 1 every minute or so.>
This is normal to most battery types, including the one in your car, if you start using it without the car running (like lights, radio at high volume, etc). Batteries rise to a 'rest voltage' and quickly drop to a 'working voltage' and both are dependent on how fresh (or charged in case of rechargeables)
the battery is.
<Clearly it doesn't continue at this rate, is appears to slow down as the number drops.>
See above - 'working voltage'
<Ultimately I am trying to determine when I need to change batteries. At this stage in the season I am riding some long rides (centuries and the like), and I want to make sure that I am collecting good data on the ride even though I start out with a good battery test at the beginning of the ride.>
John has frequently stated that starting at 2.75 or above is good. If planning for a century, I might add
a little more margin - maybe 2.78? Good to always carry the spare. Remember, if you are wireless, to put the new battery in the wireless mount and rotate it's old battery to the iBike is best overall procedure.
If you are mid ride and notice numbers going funny (high power typical) stop, do a trip reset and change your battery. You can assemble to two ride file parts (append function) in the iBike software later.
<A related question, is what is the state of the battery when it first fails the battery test at start up?>
I haven't actually observed this yet but I would expect that it dropped below 2.75 during the initial test.
I suspect the initial test places a slight extra load on the batter to reach nearly the 'working voltage' in a short period of time. If this is not exactly correct, perhaps John or someone will add to this ?
Russ