Analyze Profile

[gayeskin]

Can someone take a look at this calibration file. Read a couple of topics about analyzing the calibration rides but thought it best to leave to the experts until the "Guide" is released.
Take into consideration that it was really windy in Chicago today. Not sure how that will affect everything.
Thanks
Nathan

[crazymadcyclist]

hi,

I am not expert (yet) but have a look at this post from John at Velocomp. I found it most helpful in determining if my profile was within range. I hope it helps. Here is a cut and Paste :-

Re: Profile Ranges : Post by Velocomp on 03 May 2010, 20:41

Here are some guidelines:

CdA

TT: 0.2 to 0.33
Hoods: 0.28 to 0.45
Drops: 0.26 to 0.42

Crr:

0.002 to 0.008

The smaller the number, the better your tires and the smoother the pavement. Towards the high end, you're on chip seal or even dirt

Wind Scaling Factor

Stem: 0.5 to 1.5

Handlebars: 1.3 to 4.5

Riding tilt:

0.0% to -1.2%

(riding tilt should never be positive)

Aero:

0.15 to 2.0

Aero depends on your CdA and your wind scaling factor; lower numbers would be for stem mount locations and TT ride positions

Fric

3.0 to 17

Fric depends on Crr, riding tilt, and total weight. Bigger numbers are caused by a combination of large negative riding tilt and large rider weight

[coachboyd]

It looks like the wind may have played a bit of havoc on each particular coastdown. . . but what we are finding is that the fast start (where you enter your height, weight, and riding position) is working even better than we had planned for (comparing it to lots of DFPM files).

I would recommend using the fast start values and then do a longer cal ride (maybe 4 miles instead of 2). This should give you the results that you are looking for.

[gayeskin]

Will give that a shot. Thanks for taking the time to look at that.

[gayeskin]

Also, how do i select a 4 mile instead of the default 2 mile calibration ride. Is it as easy as just doing the calibration ride twice?

Thanks
Nathan

[racerfern]

You don't select it, you just do it. It works like this:

Set out on your calride for whatever distance you want but at least two miles total. Anytime after one mile the moment you slow below 8mph IIRC the ibike says you've started the return leg. Even though it's saying go back after one mile you can just keep riding and turn anytime after the mile. The iBike will know when you turn and will count down to zero. Trust me it works.

The other way you can do it and I prefer this way is to do a number of laps on a shorter course. Remember, the iBike won't offer to go back until you've done at least a mile. So you can go .6 miles and turn around and the iBike thinks you're still on the out leg. Now at one mile you get the go back and at 1.2 you actually turn around. So at 1.8 miles you're three laps into the cal ride and finally upon arriving back at the start with 2.4 miles total you successfully end your cal ride.

Just set out to do the cal ride and don't hit any buttons unless you need to abort. The iBike will handle the rest very nicely.